Sit at a kitchen table after dinner with a marquise on your hand, and you will see the dark band move across the center of the stone as you tilt your fingers under the overhead lamp. That band is the bowtie, and the bowtie is part of why marquise shopping in 2026 starts with a sourcing decision before it becomes a setting decision. Lab-grown or natural changes price by a wide margin and changes the cut inventory a buyer can browse in the first place.

Designer	What Sets It Apart
GOODSTONE	Lab-grown and natural marquise compared side by side with the same designer through the build
Mejuri	Direct-to-consumer marquise lab-grown program at a mid-market entry price
Heidi Gibson	Made-to-order LA studio with selective custom requests and heirloom marquise halos
Anna Sheffield	Bleecker Street design house with engagement marquise built to stack with ceremonial bands
Logan Hollowell	LA-based celestial and starburst marquise solitaires across a wide bespoke range
Marrow Fine	Hand-cast Maeve marquise in lab or natural with low-set dainty proportions
Ken & Dana Design	NYC family studio with the deepest named marquise catalog in production

GOODSTONE

The marquise category is the cut where the lab-grown versus natural decision matters most, because price gaps run roughly 70 to 81 percent on like-for-like 4Cs and because the better-cut marquise inventory has been showing up in lab-grown foundries for the past two years. GOODSTONE handles that decision by putting both supply paths in the same case. A buyer sits with a designer in the Austin showroom or on a video call, looks at lab-grown marquise stones at one price point and naturals at another, and works through the tradeoff in a single conversation. The shop publishes its own technical writing on bowtie, pavilion angles, and depth, so the buyer is not asking for sourcing advice from a generalist. Rings start near $2,500 and run upward depending on stone choice, and the initial consultation is free of charge. The same designer then handcrafts the ring to order rather than handing the project off to a separate production team.

Mejuri

Mejuri runs a direct-to-consumer model and opened a dedicated engagement program with marquise as one of the named shapes in the Milestone Rings collection. The center stones are lab-grown, and the entry pricing is set lower than most legacy bridal houses, which makes Mejuri a useful first stop for a buyer who wants a marquise but uncertain if the cut is the right fit before committing to a custom path. The non-engagement side of the catalog also carries marquise fine jewelry, including the Organic Dome Thin Marquise Cut Nesting Ring around $698, which gives a buyer an inexpensive way to live with the silhouette on a finger for a few weeks before buying the larger piece. The brand was founded in 2015 and runs a global online business with try-in studios in select cities for the engagement program.

Heidi Gibson

Heidi Gibson works out of a downtown Los Angeles studio and accepts custom requests on a selective basis rather than running an open custom queue. The marquise designs in the catalog include heirloom marquise halos and vintage marquise halo settings, and each piece is individually crafted to order rather than mass produced. Buyers who like the marquise halo silhouette but want a slightly older, more handcrafted character to the metalwork are the right audience here. Lead times run longer than the volume retailers because the studio is small and the designer’s hand is on every ring. Recycled metals and ethically sourced diamonds run across the line, and the studio will work in both lab-grown and natural stones depending on the brief the buyer brings in. The signature visual is the elongated stone surrounded by a fine bead halo, which both protects the points and lifts the visual size on the finger by another fifteen percent or so.

Anna Sheffield

Anna Sheffield has been based in New York since the mid-2000s and runs a Bleecker Street store alongside her online catalog. The marquise engagement collection sits inside a wider marquise jewelry program, so buyers can pull from a coordinated set of bands, eternity rings, and ceremonial stacks designed to combine with the engagement piece. Recycled metals, lab-created diamonds, and rare stones are the three main sourcing buckets, with the marquise center available across all three. The aesthetic skews romantic and slightly bohemian, less hard-edged than a modern downtown jewelry brand and less ornamental than a vintage specialist. Customization is offered for buyers who want to adjust band width, prong configuration, or pave density on a base design rather than starting from a blank sheet.

Logan Hollowell

Logan Hollowell builds out of Los Angeles with a celestial and goddess-themed design language, and her marquise pieces sit inside a larger bespoke program that ranges from roughly $8,150 into the high six figures. Solitaire engagement rings climb up to about $82,000, and the higher end of the engagement collection runs into the $300,000 range for fully custom builds. Marquise stones appear in both straightforward solitaire forms and in the starburst settings the brand is known for, with the points of the marquise becoming part of a wider radial design. Buyers who want the marquise as an element inside a larger conceptual ring rather than the centerpiece of a minimal solitaire have an obvious home here. Each ring is made to order and the studio works with bespoke clients on a one-on-one basis through the design.

Marrow Fine

Marrow Fine runs custom and ready-to-wear from the same studio, and the marquise piece worth knowing first is the Maeve. The Maeve sets a marquise low on a dainty gold band in a six-prong north-south configuration, hand-cast and finished by the studio’s craft team. Lab-grown and natural center stones are both on offer across the marquise collection, with the natural side reaching into the $15,000-plus range and the lab side opening below that. White gold and yellow gold are the two metal options for the Maeve. The studio also handles custom toi-et-moi and three-stone configurations involving marquise centers, which is one of the harder marquise build types to execute well because the long center stone visually fights flanking shapes when the proportions are not worked out by hand at the bench.

Ken & Dana Design

Ken & Dana Design has been a family-owned NYC studio since 2003 and publishes one of the deeper named marquise catalogs in production today. The catalog includes Odette as a vintage-inspired solitaire, Skyla as an ornate engraved setting, Jacqueline as a split-shank with marquise accents along the band, Jinny as a vintage cluster with milgrain, Odira as a hidden halo, and Dory as a three-stone marquise halo. Every ring is made to order with conflict-free or lab-grown diamonds and recycled metals. The catalog depth matters here because a buyer can compare in-house variations on the marquise theme side by side, instead of asking a generalist shop to mock up six different options from scratch. Custom variations on any of the named designs run through the studio’s design team in person at the New York workshop.

Practical Answers for Marquise Cut Shoppers

What is a marquise cut diamond?

A marquise cut diamond is an elongated, boat-shaped stone with two pointed ends and 58 brilliant-cut facets. The classic length-to-width ratio falls between 1.75:1 and 2.15:1, with 1.85 to 2.0 considered the sweet spot. The cut originated in mid-18th-century France around 1745 when King Louis XV commissioned a diamond shaped after the lips of his mistress, the Marquise de Pompadour.

Why is it called a marquise cut?

The earliest French name for the shape was “navette,” meaning “little boat,” in reference to the elongated hull-like silhouette. The name shifted to “marquise” because French courtiers of marquess rank wore the cut to display court status during the reign of Louis XV. The Pompadour connection sealed the name in common usage.

Are marquise diamonds going out of style?

No. Marquise diamonds are in the middle of a documented revival driven by Selena Gomez’s December 2024 engagement ring and wider buyer demand for elongated cuts. Google searches for marquise engagement rings have surpassed searches for round cuts for the first time on record, and marquise sales at one large lab-grown retailer were up 94 percent year-over-year in 2026.

What does a marquise cut symbolize?

The marquise is read as a symbol of romance and aristocratic taste because of its 18th-century French court origin. The two pointed ends are sometimes read as Cupid’s arrows for love and passion, and sometimes as two people meeting in unity at a single center. The elongation has also been associated with endurance.

How much does a marquise cut engagement ring cost?

In 2026, a lab-grown 1-carat marquise solitaire typically falls between $2,500 and $4,500 all-in. A natural 1-carat marquise solitaire typically falls between $5,500 and $9,000 all-in. Halo, three-stone, and pave settings add roughly $1,000 to $4,000 over a plain solitaire, and luxury-tier pieces from named houses climb well past those bands.

Are lab-grown marquise diamonds a good choice?

For most buyers, yes. Lab-grown marquise stones run about 70 to 81 percent less than natural equivalents at like-for-like 4Cs in 2026. The newer foundry inventories also include more fancy shapes than mined supply, which makes it easier to find well-cut marquise stones in the 1.5 to 3 carat range without compromising on symmetry.

What is the bowtie effect on a marquise diamond?

The bowtie is a dark band running horizontally across the center of an elongated diamond. It is a shadow rather than an inclusion. The shape is caused by the viewer’s own head and shoulders blocking light that the pavilion facets would otherwise return, and the elongated geometry lines those dark zones up across the center of the stone.

Can the bowtie effect be eliminated?

No, not entirely on a traditional marquise. The bowtie is inherent to the shape’s pavilion geometry and cannot be cut out of an elongated stone. A faint bowtie can improve scintillation by adding contrast, while a strong bowtie disrupts brilliance and signals less precise cutting. Buyers should evaluate the bowtie in motion on a 360-degree video, because GIA does not record bowtie severity on the certificate.

What is the best length-to-width ratio for a marquise diamond?

GIA cites 1.75:1 to 2.15:1 as the classic range, with 1.85 to 2.0 as the sweet spot for most preferences. Below 1.75 the stone looks stubby. Above 2.15 it looks skinny, and the bowtie effect grows darker at the higher ratios because pavilion-angle control becomes harder for the cutter.

What is an east-west marquise engagement ring?

An east-west marquise rotates the stone so it lies horizontally across the finger rather than parallel to it. East-west settings are one of the most cited marquise trends of 2026. The orientation makes the ring sit lower on the hand, snag less on clothing, and read as more contemporary than the traditional north-south orientation.

What is a V-prong setting?

A V-prong is a metal prong shaped like a V that wraps around the pointed tip of a fancy-cut diamond, cradling the most vulnerable part of the stone. Marquise, pear, and princess cuts all benefit from V-prongs at their corners. Six-prong configurations with V-prongs at both points are the most secure mainstream setting for a marquise.

Are marquise diamonds rare?

Marquise diamonds make up roughly 1.5 percent of all GIA-certified diamonds, which is small relative to round, oval, and cushion. Well-cut marquise stones with strong symmetry and a minimal bowtie are rarer still, because relatively few cutters specialize in the shape today.

@BC360 TODAY

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